Winspit

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Winspit is a popular, easily accessible and generally sheltered crag. It is situated a short distance from the nearby village of Worth Matravers.

Winspit has 3 main areas of climbing activity. 2 quarried walls with some extensive and quite interesting bolted routes and a seawall which offers a number of short, yet worthwhile routes with many at the lower-end of the grade scale. Its ease of accessibilty, range of grades and also the sheltered nature of the crag make it an ideal venue, especially in changeable weather or indeed for some evening climbing, especially during the summer months.

Warm Afternoon Climbing in the Sun in January Pump Me Tenderly - Quarryman's Wall, Winspit

The Crags

The Main (West) Quarry

Quarryman's Wall

South Face

Winspit East End (Eastern Sea Walls)

To the north-east of the cove the quarrying activity has left a large ledge below which is an extensive sea cliff. As the ledge narrows to the north-east the cliff gains in height, and character. The cliff is a secluded environment compared to the cove, has good finishes, and mostly sound (sometimes superb) rock. A friendly area offering a range of grades and amenities.
The lack of stars does not mean that the routes here are poor. It is just that the routes are short and, because of the rock structure, the difficulties are often short lived. Much of worth is to be found here however. The plenitude of easier routes, sound finishes, and simple access make the area particularly attractive for those new to the sport.
The routes as far as Christine have the added advantage of being “walk in” routes. Although it is possible to reach all the routes by traversing, those to the north-east of Christine are better reached by abseiling. Easy escape routes can be found from most areas.

• The Square-Cut Bay
• The Stone Beach
• Barney Area
• Nurses Corner
• The Echoes
• Sleepy Hollow
• The Hidden Arch
• The Far East

Printable version of this Winspit crag guide (75kb .pdf file)

Access

Access to Winspit is simple. There is a sizeable National Trust car park (donation required unless NT member) in the village of Worth Matravers (be forewarned, however that it is often rather busy, especially during the summer months and weekends). Start at the village pond in Worth and follow the signposted footpath to Winspit. Once at the bottom of the path, the crags are easy to find, with the Main Quarry to the West, Quarrymans Wall on the East and the Eastern seawall also around to the East.

Restrictions

Like many Swanage venues, there are many bird-nesting restrictions in operation. Winspit thankfully has only some near the Eastern Seawalls. Please consult the BMC Bird Restrictions Guide at www.thebmc.com

Post-Climb Refreshments

Rarely has a decision been so easy. Simply re-trace your steps up to Worth Matravers and drop in to the Square and Compass. Fantastic beer, cider and allegedly some soft-drinks too. On certain (very random but not infrequent occasions) live music too. Food-wise, this is a pub, not one of those poncy gastro pubs, so you'll have to make do with crisps or if very lucky pasties or sausage pie. All are heartily recommended :)