Boulder Ruckle for Beginners

It's a long way to the mountains from the South Coast, but to make up for that we have some of the finest sea-cliff climbing in the country right on our doorstep.

If you want to sample the essential Swanage experience, then you will need to move on from the quarried sport routes or the familiar trad climbs at Subliminal or Cattle Troughs and to venture into Boulder Ruckle. This can be a bit daunting at first, so the idea behind these notes is to encourage more people to sample the unique atmosphere of the Ruckle, with some general advice and a list of recommended easier routes. The thing I love about the Ruckle is the easy access to a real adventure. You start with a short walk from the car through the Durlston Country Park among the dog walkers and families out for a stroll, but after quick abseil you are suddenly in a different world, with a feeling of commitment and seriousness that is just as great as on a remote mountain crag.

Carolyn Lyness on the crux of Bottomless Buttress (HS)

And the climbing is superb – steep, bold and exposed, but with plenty of big holds that allow you to climb unlikely terrain at a bargain grade. Most routes are 30 to 40 metres long but they seem to punch above their weight with sustained climbing, so that two or three routes in the Ruckle will give you a very satisfying day's climbing. But what about the loose rock, I hear you say. Well, I won't try to kid you that the Ruckle is as solid as at Sennen or Stanage, but it is quite reasonable on the better routes, and in any case the odd loose hold adds to the sense of adventure.

Bob Mott after the traverse of Silhouette Arete (VS)

The famous routes in the Ruckle start at HVS, but there are still plenty of excellent easier routes in the Severe and VS grades. Here you will find some useful information to help you find your way, and a ‘top 20' selection of easier climbs arranged roughly in order of difficulty, ranging from Severe to the lower reaches of the HVS grade. There are two reasons for ending here – it's the limit of my leading ability, even on a good day, and it allows us to finish with three all-time classic routes that are not only representative of Swanage's finest but are some of the best routes in the country.

Conditions

Swanage is probably the nearest thing in the UK to an all-year climbing venue, with the best weather in the country and south facing crags which catch any sun that's going. Some of the finest climbing conditions are on crisp cold winter days with sunshine and a north wind – you may need a down jacket on the cliff top but down on the crag, in the sun and sheltered from the wind, you can be climbing in a T shirt.

The tidal range is very small and most routes are accessible at all states of the tide unless the sea is rough. The only exceptions in the listed routes are Paradise Street , Gimcrack, Hermes and Behemoth, which require a lowish tide and calm seas.

Seasonal restrictions

Parts of the Ruckle are out of bounds from March to July (inclusive) to avoid disturbing nesting seabirds. These routes are marked [R] in the list. Note that the restrictions have changed since the publication of the last CC guide.

Gear

Double ropes are useful on most routes, and essential on climbs that include some traversing, such as Silhouette Arête, Black Sunshine or Lightning Wall. Take a full rack with plenty of medium to large wires, and some extra slings and long extenders to avoid rope drag where the routes weave through the inevitable overhangs. One or two large hexes are also useful on some of the routes. Most of the cracks have irregular sides so that nuts are generally more useful than cams, but good cam placements do occur - four of the routes in the list contain in-situ cams that have been firmly stuck for many years.

Pam Jolliffe on the first pitch of Hermes (VS)

Guide Books and Information

All of the routes will be found in the definitive Climbers Club guide to Swanage, last revised in 1994 and reprinted in 2002. Eleven of the routes are also in the RockFax guide to Dorset and you can comment on the routes and read other climbers' opinions in the on-line RockFax database http://www.rockfax.com/databases/index.html . Another useful source of information is on the Dizzy Heights website, http://www.dizzy-heights.co.uk/beyond_subluminal.html which gives some general advice and a description of several of the best Ruckle routes.

Grades

Swanage has a reputation for under-grading, but I suspect that this is more because it takes a while for newcomers to get used to the style of climbing. Bear in mind that the grading system makes some allowance for the seriousness of the Ruckle, so that climbs here will usually have a slightly lower level of technical difficulty than routes of the same grade at Subluminal or Cattle Troughs.

Abseil Approaches

At the foot of the Old Faithful abseil

Getting into the Ruckle requires an abseil of about 40 metres and then the only escapes are to climb out or to prusik back up the rope. In practice, it's unlikely that you will be forced to prusik out - I have never had to resort to this in almost 30 years of climbing in the Ruckle, even though I seldom lead above VS. The prospect of a 40 metre prusik is an excellent incentive to get up a climb! Take a spare rope for the abseil and leave it in place - 45 metres is plenty. When searching for the abseil point, remember that there will always be at least two stakes in place for the established abseil points.

The four main abseil entries for the easier routes in the Ruckle are...

Nutcracker

There are two stakes above the next bay west of Greasy Chimney at Subluminal, and about 10 metres east of the red and green post which marks the seasonal restriction boundary. The landing area can be seen from the top of the buttress next to Greasy Chimney and is clear except in very rough seas. Use this approach for Intersection, Airy Legs, Nutcracker Exit 2 and Hermes.

Old Faithful

The abseil point is about 100 metres west of Subluminal and 200 metres east of Marmolata. Look for a three-generation family of stakes in place near the cliff top path. At high tide you will need to align the rope carefully to land on the ‘fin-backed' boulder at the foot of Old Faithful – this can be clearly seen from the edge of the cliff. Stay away in rough seas, unless you plan to stop on the half way ledge and enjoy the superb top pitch of Old Faithful . Use this approach for Jasper, Old Faithful , Bakers Dozen and Behemoth.

Marmolata

The obvious jutting that which can be clearly seen from Subluminal and when approaching from the east. There are two stakes in place for an abseil down the east face of the buttress. Use this approach for Asp, Finale Groove, Heidelberg Creature, Tatra, Lightning Wall and Gimcrack. Take care when using this descent when the sea is rough, as a low section below Tatra may prevent progress westwards.

The Ramp

About 800 metres west of the lighthouse is a stone wall with a signpost which marks the western end of Durlston Country Park . About 20 metres east of the wall is a gap in the cliff-top bushes, and at the right hand (western) side of the gap there are two large stakes above an earthy slope. This is the abseil to choose if you have any doubts about your ability to climb out, as you can ascend The Ramp at about V.Diff standard to a ledge about 6 metres below the top of the cliff, and then pull out on the abseil rope. Use this approach for Paradise Street , Jericho Groove, Black Sunshine, Aventura, Bottomless Buttress and Silhouette Arête.

Norman Wright on Airy Legs (HS)

The Top 20

The climbs are listed in approximate order of difficulty, with. Like all such graded lists, this is very subjective and based on the personal views of a lanky bloke with pathetic upper body strength and a strong sense of self-preservation. The grades come from the latest CC guide, and the observant will notice that I do not always agree with these grades.

Intersection (S 4a)

Only a few metres from the crowds at Subluminal, but you could be in a different world. A neglected gem – steep climbing on big holds, exposed and photogenic.

Bottomless Buttress. (HS 4a, 4a)

A good introduction to the main part of the Ruckle, which is easy to find, has some fine climbing on the first pitch and offers a easy introduction into the dubious pleasures of the Ruckle finish. It climbs the huge undercut buttress about 100 metres east of the abseil down the Ramp. The first section needs a little commitment on flaky holds to start the traverse out on to the front of the buttress, but the climbing soon eases and the moves up the twin cracks on the front of the buttress are elegant, delightfully exposed and well protected.

Jericho Groove (HS 4a, 4a)

Try this after Bottomless Buttress. A great first pitch with a tricky traverse across an exposed prow, which can be just as exciting for the second as for the leader. Thoughtful runner placements, including a head-high sling above the traverse, will allow your second to enjoy the experience without too much worry about a spectacular pendulum.

Paradise Street . (S 4a or HS 4b)

A fine traverse along the fault line between Cattle Troughs and the Ruckle, best enjoyed on a hot summer's day when the chance for a halfway swim will be most appreciated. It can be climbed in either direction, though it's best to start from the Ruckle when the first pitch is the crux and quite stiff for the grade. If you start from Cattle Troughs, the crux pitch can be abseiled which reduces the grade to Severe. Low tide and a calm sea are essential to reach the start (or finish) of the route at the far western end of the Ruckle.

Gimcrack (VS 4a, 4b)

The easiest VS in the Ruckle is a worthwhile expedition and the scene of my first experience of the Ruckle back in the seventies. I was terrified! Nowadays it all seems much friendlier and the main problem is getting to the start of the route – the easiest is to approach from Marmolata at low tide on a calm day, and even then you may need to get your feet wet. Although not in the restricted area, it's a popular nesting spot so worth avoiding in spring and early summer.

Airy Legs (HS 4b/c, 4a)

Another fine route just round the corner from Subluminal. A bold but well protected first pitch which may seem a touch hard for the grade, especially for the vertically challenged.

Old Faithful (VS 4b, 4c) [R]

An absolute cracker and probably the best introduction to the Ruckle if you are confident at VS, this is a superb route that epitomises the best of Swanage climbing – steep, bold, well-protected and on perfect rock throughout. The top pitch is a real stunner with the highlight being some outrageous looking moves round a big overhang that require a confident approach.

Hermes (VS 4a, 4c) [R]

Omitted from Rockfax and barely mentioned in the CC guide, this is a fine route in the atmospheric eastern section of the Ruckle. Approach from the Nutcracker abseil at low tide on a calm day.

Bakers Dozen (VS 4c, 4c) [R]

A circuitous but enjoyable route that starts and finishes at the same point as Old Faithful . Two contrasting pitches on good rock with excellent protection – a fingery and technical groove, then a fierce pull up an overhanging crack on solid jams.

Black Sunshine (VS 4c, 4b)

Sustained and varied climbing on solid rock make for a great route, in spite of slightly wandering line. The CC guidebook description of an ‘undercut flake' on the first pitch has confused a few people; the easiest way is to bridge over the initial overhang and climb a shallow groove past an in-situ thread for about 5 metres, then make an exciting swing left on sharp flakes to a big foothold on the arête. After climbing easily up for a few metres, a delicate and poorly protected traverse leads back right to a V-groove that goes up to a belay on the fault line. The top pitch is easier but still good, starting with a little overhang that is much easier than it looks.

Silhouette Arete (VS 4a, 4c) [R]

A sensationally exposed top pitch up a hanging arête makes this perhaps the best VS in the Ruckle. Check out the photo in the CC guide – it really is that good. After an easy first pitch to an enclosed stance the way ahead is all too obvious – out to the frightening looking arête on the right.

Some people hand traverse the fault line and then pull up, but the usual way is to bridge up out of the sentry box, fix some good runners, and shuffle across with your feet in the big break until you can step up on to the wall above. Now you're in wonderland, for you can stand in balance, fix a thread runner, pose for photos and savour the outrageous position. The pleasure continues with a gloriously easy romp up the arête on huge holds until a small overhang blocks the way. This is the second crux – the moves are solid VS and wildly exposed but some good runners calm the nerves for a pull over into any easy finishing groove. You won't forget that pitch in a hurry.

Asp (VS 4b, 4c) [R]

A fine route that snakes its way up an impressively steep buttress in the remote central area of the Ruckle. Watch out for some cunning route finding on the top pitch, and a tricky finish.

Nutcracker Exit II (HVS 4c)

Another worthwhile route in the bay just west of Subluminal - a delightful pitch with good holds appearing just when you need them. Make sure that you do the variation finish, trending right from the ledge at two thirds height, which gets a well-disguised star in the CC guide. There aren't many easy pickings at Swanage but this is a real soft touch at the grade – make the most of it!

Heidelberg Creature (VS 4c, 4b)

A tough proposition at the grade with an awesomely steep first pitch. The crux comes low down, with a bold move out to the arête on the left, but the rest of the pitch gives some wild bridging which is a good dress rehearsal for Finale Groove. The top pitch is a bit easier but gives some fine climbing with lots of exposure.

Aventura (HVS 4c, 4c)

An exciting route and a worthy tick in Chris Cragg's book of the 100 best limestone climbs in Britain . A pleasant first pitch up a chimney and corner leads to a halfway stance with the best thread belay in the world round a huge ammonite. The top pitch is archetypal Ruckle climbing – an unlikely line at the grade, outrageously exposed, steep and intimidating, but once you commit yourself good holds appear and it all goes surprisingly smoothly. Don't worry about the dire warnings in the CC Guide over the stability of the roof on the top pitch; more than a decade later, it's still there and apparently just as solid as anything else in the Ruckle.

Jasper (HVS 4c, 4c) [R]

A fine route with two contrasting pitches. The first is steep and quite hard (probably 5a) but with overhead runners on the crux, while the second is more balancy but with spaced protection. The half way belay is very awkward and slightly off route, so it may be better to climb the route as a single pitch.

Tatra (VS 5a, 4b, 4c)

An old classic which finds the easiest line up the formidable Marmolata buttress. Traditionally VS but a real sandbag - the first pitch has a section of 5a climbing with awkward protection and rest of the route is no pushover either. If you still think that it's VS you are better than me, so register your opinion on the Rockfax database – when I last looked over 80% of voters rated it HVS.

Lightning Wall (HVS 4b, 5a)

One of the great Swanage classics, taking the easiest line up the imposing wall that dominates the view over Marmolata Buttress. You wouldn't think so from that view, but most of the route can be climbed in balance at around VS, with only one short and well protected section of 5a climbing.

Although the guide books describe the route as a single pitch, I prefer to split the climb with a belay in the sentry box at the fault line, in order to avoid rope drag and to give more of the full Ruckle experience. If you do this the second pitch is the one to go for – the crux to start with, then a superbly exposed traverse above the big roof of Elysium before a steep wall and easy groove lead to the top. Just remember to look after your second, who can end up in space if they fall off the start of the traverse!

Finale Groove (HVS 4c)

Perhaps Swanage's most famous route, another tick from the Chris Craggs book and a fond memory as it was my first real HVS lead, 25 years after I started climbing. From below it looks a ridiculous proposition at the grade - a tapering grove that runs the full height of the cliff and seems to overhang all the way – and the psychological crux is making the commitment to start the route rather than running away and looking for something more amenable.

Once you get started you will find that you can climb in balance for a lot of the way by bridging, with plenty of good holds and placements for as much gear as you can carry. Just try and save some adrenaline for the tricky final section where you have to quit the groove for wildly exposed moves on the left wall.

Behemoth (HVS 4c, 5a) [R]

A brilliant top pitch makes this many people's choice as the best HVS at Swanage, and if you ask Scott he'll probably tell you that it's the best HVS in the universe. It starts pleasantly enough with straightforward climbing up a corner until a tricky move left leads to a belay on the fault line. This rates 5b in Rockfax but it seemed easier to me, albeit from the blunt end of the rope, and in any case this pitch is just the undercard before the big fight to come.

You launch out into a very exposed and overhanging groove; ferociously steep but surprisingly steady as you can work your way up steadily, fixing good runners and keeping in balance by with some cunning back-and-foot or bridging, until you reach a ledge that is quite tiny but feels positively spacious after what has gone before. Now the character of the pitch changes, as you need to quit the relative security of the corner and move onto the right wall. Although technically easier than below, there is no chance of a rest here, so fix a high runner, swallow that can of spinach and power up the ‘arm-blowing' cracks on impeccable rough limestone to a solid exit.

Printable version of this Boulder Ruckle crag guide (pdf file)

(All text by Bob Mott - WMC member)